Information: Handheld GPS Units and Hiking

You are never lost if you don’t care where you are. Most of us though, do care. I am a great believer in handheld GPS units. I have been using one since 2003. A handheld GPS unit is designed to be used outdoors, unlike the unit you find in cars. The newer units are quite sophisticated, actual much more than is necessary. GPS units are like cars, there are a mess of manufacturers and models out there, each one appealing to different types of people. I use mine for both hiking and Geocaching. I can not really tell you which one to buy, I currently have a Garmin 60cx and am quite pleased with it. If you search the Internet you will find a great deal of information about GPS units, so I will not go into details about anything you can find out just by doing a little research. Make sure you set your unit up to your tastes, everyone seems to like the data presented in a different fashion - that is not a problem as long as you understand it! What I'm going to talk about is using your unit for hiking. Every GPS unit has the following basic functionality -
  • Determine your current longitude and latitude - one use for this is if you ever get lost and have to call for help, you just have to provide your rescuers with the lat/lon and they can get to you
  • "Mark" your current position (called a waypoint) - this is used for future reference or as a place to possibly get back to, like the parking area
  • Keep track of where you have been - these are called "tracks". These are used to reference where you have been or a means to "backtrack" if you get lost
This is my hiking GPS regiment - Before the hike begins I do this -
  • Clear out all waypoints and tracks (reseting both)
  • Download any tracks and waypoints I might need on the hike (normally only waypoints of places I might want to go to)
  • Recharge the batteries (I only use rechargeable batteries)
  • Pack it in a place where I won't forget it
When I get to the hiking site and I'm all ready to use it -
  • Turn unit on, wait for satellite reception (must have that)
  • If nothing has been downloaded, I will reset the unit one more time - cleaning out tracks and waypoints - I always reset the "trip computer" function so I know at all times how far I have hiked
  • Create a waypoint of where the car is parked - "mark the spot"
  • Start the hike
As I'm hiking -
  • I will check the map screen every so often to see how my tracks are - you should see a line on the screen showing where you have gone
  • "Mark" waypoints of different spots along the trail - this could be an interesting spot, a place where the trail splits, where I saw a certain flower or animal, where I had lunch - whatever I feel might be good to look back at later or I might need to get back too. I enter a short name for each waypoint I enter.
  • At times, use the unit to bring me to a preentered destination or bring me back to a previous entered destination, like the parking area. This function is what I use it for mostly.
  • If necessary, I can always use the tracks data to figure out where the trail I took is and how to get back to it. There is a true "backtrack" function, but that is really only used in case you really, really get lost.
End of hike -
  • I always turn the unit off when I get back to the car, this preserves the trip data (mileage, walking time, stopped time, avg speed etc). If I am going to use the unit on another hike that day, I write down the trip data so I can record each hikes data when I get home
When I get home -
  • Download all the data to my PC (I use Garmin's Mapsource Program)
  • Edit all the waypoint names I entered in the field (example: pk1 is changed to parking)
  • Save the cleaned up waypoints and tracks to a file and place it in a "hiking" folder for future reference
  • Pass the tracks and waypoints to Google Earth so I can see what my hiked looked like from that viewpoint
That is pretty much how I use my GPS for hiking. This may seem like a lot of things to do, but most of them are necessary to insure that you don't get lost on a hike. I must say it again, I love my GPS! I wouldn't go out in the woods depending on instincts alone - if for no other reason help can be told exactly where you are. There are some specialty units out there which can actually report your positions to family and/or friends on a "realtime" basis. They can see where you are on their computer screens. This was as of 2009, who knows what is available as you read this. Please consider buying a GPS and then make sure you learn how to use it. If you have one already and are not using it, learn how to use it. Like everything in this world, handheld GPS units improve each year. The one thing you should make sure your unit has is a "high sensitivity" chipset. These chipsets do a much better job of determining your lat/lon than older chipsets. I have helped many, many people with their GPS units - in almost all cases they learned to use them and feel much more secure in the field. I certainly haven't learned all the functions of my units, so the reference manual is always available if needed. So learn how to do the above things and keep the reference manual for backup. Happy and safe trails to all!

How-To: Using Google Earth for Hiking

This is about Google Earth and how it can help hikers. I feel that every hiker should have a copy of Google Earth on their computer. This computer program is great for scouting out areas to hike. Many people have uploaded photos and actual hiking history for many parts of the world to Google Earth. If you have an area in mind to hike, you can view that area using Google Earth and in many cases get an idea of what you will encounter using the photos and GPS Tracks that might be available there. Even if there are no photos or tracks, you can still get an idea of what the area looks like from Google Earth’s aerial views. Hiking with a handheld GPS unit is a great way to hike for security, but now you can actually download from Google Earth to your GPS unit someone else’s hiking history in the form of tracks to use when you get to your hiking destination.

Google Earth is free, but there are some computer restrictions on using it. You must have at least Windows XP (GE does run on a MAC) and also have a broadband connection (DSL, cable, etc). It is a memory hog, so the more memory you have, the better it will run. If you have a broadband connection and have not yet loaded Google Earth on your computer, go to http://earth.google.com/ and select the download. Note: if you have trouble with the normal download page, give this one a try - http://earth.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=168344

Your mouse is very important tool in using Google Earth.
Its button functions are:
Mouse Wheel – use this to zoom in and out the aerial view - “up” zooms in, “down” zooms out
Left Mouse Button – hold it down and move the mouse around to “fly” around the map
Right Mouse Button – hold it down to also control zooming and pitching Screen

Things to notice:
-- On the very bottom of the screen is the latitude and longitude (lat/long) of the position of the cursor. You can pass this data on to fellow hikers if you want them to look at the spot you are looking at. Just give them the lat/long as it is displayed. They would type that into the “search” box and then they would “fly” to that location
-- At the bottom left corner of the satellite view is the date the image was taken (i.e. Imagery Date). This is the month and year the aerial photo was taken. This will give you an idea of how old the view is
-- View clarity. Some views are clearer than others as you zoom in. The clarity of the view depends on how the aerial photo was taken. Some are taken with High Definition cameras, others are taken with less sophisticated cameras. You will normally see better photos in high-profile areas. The woods of Maine might be just a blur so the aerial photographers could save money.

I also recommend you do not save a lot of places. Each place you save in the “Places” sidebar is loaded when you load Google Earth. If you want to save places, save them as files that can be loaded later. Right-click on a place and select “delete” to remove it if you don’t want it. To save a place, right-click on it, select “Save place as..”, select a folder to save it in, give it a name and save it. If you want to temporarily hide a place, just remove the checkmark next to it and it will be suppressed. You can put the checkmark back to see it on the map again. There are endless things you can do, just explore with caution; “shooting from the hip” can get you into real trouble.

Once Google Earth is installed on your computer, start the program and make sure the Search/Places/Layers sidebar is displayed on the left side of the screen. If it is not, click “View” in the menu at the top of the screen and then click “Sidebar” to put a checkmark next to it. The sidebar should now be visible. Now you may want to look at the program’s options, making any changes you deem necessary. This is pretty advanced, so you may want to leave it as is until you know more about the workings of Google Earth. You get to options by clicking on “Tools” in the menu line, then “Options”.
Next, set a “starting location”. This will force Google Earth to go to that location each time it starts up. A starting location could be your neighborhood, someplace you like to hike, or the “center” of your world.
The procedure to do this is:
1. Zero in to a starting location by using the mouse wheel to zoom, and by holding the left mouse button down to “drag” the earth. Or you could type an address in the “Fly to” search box and then click on the magnifying glass to zero in to a starting location.
2. Move the cursor to the spot you want to start at
3. Click on “View” in the menu bar to open it
4. Click on “Make this my start location”

Google Earth works with base maps and allows “layers” to overlay the base map. You can turn “layers” on or off, depending on what you like. You will find the available layers in the section titled “Layers” in the “Sidebar” on the left side of your screen. Some layers have additional layers beneath them. To see all the layers beneath a top layer, just click on the “+” next to the layer name.
I suggest you turn on the following layers to help you in your hiking:
Roads – This will have GE display the road names on the map
Under Photos:
-- Panoramio – This will allow you to see dots in areas that can be clicked on to see photos. Usually, as you zoom in, more photo dots will appear.
Under Gallery:
-- Everytrail – This will display a clickable icon on the map where there is a hike defined by the Everytrail.com website.
-- Wikiloc – This will display a clickable “hiking” icon on the map where there is a hike defined by the Wikiloc website.
You can experiment with other layers if you want, but for hiking I feel the above layers are the best to use.

Here is how I feel hikers can use Google Earth. Say you want to go on a hike in Tosohatchee Wildlife Management Area. You would pan over to that spot using the mouse wheel and the left mouse button. As you zoom in on the area you will see a number of dots, which are photo dots. You could click on the dots to see photos of the different areas. You would also see hiking icons. You could click on these to see what hikes have been done by other people and uploaded to the Wikiloc or Everytrail website. If you like a hike, you could print it out (see the websites for help) or download it to your GPS. Once in your GPS (all units load tracks a different way, check your unit’s instructions for help), you could use the data as a reference when you do the hike. You also could zoom into an area that has no photos or hiking data to see what it looks like and maybe find a way to get to it. That is what I did for many of the hikes I have uploaded. I found what looked like an interesting hiking destination on Google Earth and then tried to figure a way to hike it. I find Google Earth to be a valuable tool in my hiking arsenal. I hope this article helps you, too, realize its value. If you have questions, use the help function in Google Earth or use Google searches to look up things.

How-To: Using Computer Program to "Split" a Large Track File

As I've mentioned in other blog entries about how some GPS Units don't allow you to load uploaded tracks with more than 500 track "points". As with everything there are many ways to fix a problem, this is just one of them. When done with this program you will have a new GPX File which can be used by any GPS handheld unit

Process Overview

  • Create a GPX file from your tracks - Garmin's Mapsource program allows you to save it's files in GPX format
  • Run program GPX Track Splitter
  • Load created GPX file back into your software - Garmin's Mapsource program reads GPX files
  • You will now have multiple track segments - each 500 track points or less

You will have to download and install on your computer the program "GPX Track Splitter" from this website http://sites.google.com/site/gpxtracksplitter/ (go to attachment section at the bottom of page). After doing the download, you will have to place it in a folder to be used - there is no "install" function.

Split the track points into blocks of 500

  • Start program "GPX Track Splitter"
  • Make sure "Delete Source Tracks" is checked
  • Make sure "Ask for Name of Tracks" is the selected option
  • Select "Open" and select the GPX file you downloaded
  • Use cursor to put checkmark next to the GPX file listed in the box on the left (word "Split" should now be bold)
  • Click on word "Split" in the lower right
  • A name box should now open up - enter a short name for the split track files (Example: HalScott)
  • Click "Save" in lower right corner - when file window opens up, select the folder you want to put it in and give it a logical name (Example: Hal Scott Track Split File.GPX)
  • You are now done with this program, close it
  • You will now have a GPX file which you can be used by many programs to load the tracks to your GPS. You can see my blog entry about using downloaded tracks from WIKILOC (http://tomchoma.blogspot.com/2009/04/this-entry-will-hopefully-help-you-to.html)

    GPS Information: Track Points and The 500 Point Limit

    For those who don’t know much or anything about track “points”, here is a little overview of that – whenever you turn your GPS on it starts recording what use to be called “bread crumbs” to record where you have been. These are now called “track points”. A track point is recorded at different intervals, depending on how your unit is configured. It could be every 5 feet or every 5 seconds or whatever. The track point history can be used in many ways, one of the most vital is getting you back the way you came if you get lost or just confused – this is normally called “back tracking”. What I use them for is to record my hiking/boating history. When I get back from a trip, I download this and my waypoint data to my computer and save it for later trips. Now most all GPS software and GPS units display the points, but they also connect the points so that you see lines and can better determine your path. The thing to remember is that there are only “points”; the lines are just displayed for your viewing. Now comes a problem with certain GPS units, they can store up to 10,000 points for recording, but only allow 500 points to reloaded to the unit. Now this is strange and is a problem with certain Garmin units for sure. What that means is that if you took a hike that consisted of 2200 points and when you got home downloaded that to your software, that would be fine. The 2200 points would be downloaded and stored for viewing and possible later use. Well, the day comes you want to use it; you upload it to your Garmin unit. Low and behold only the first 500 points of the 2200 actually are loaded to your unit. That would mean that only a portion of the hike would be available, the rest would be lost. Some software would have warned you of this problem, while others would just let you find out when you got to the end of the 500 points. What can you do about this problem? I suggest first, make sure it is a problem with your GPS, read the manual or ask. If it is not a problem, that is great, if is a problem, here are some solutions –
    1. You could download and install a program "GPX Track Splitter" from this website http://sites.google.com/site/gpxtracksplitter/ (look at attachments section - bottom of page). It is a pretty simple program which does not have any means to simply install it, you have to place it in a folder to be used. It is a very nice program, which does the trick – just not that user friendly. You will also have to insure that the tracks you want to split are stored in a file using “GPX" format. GPX format (GPS Exchange Format) is a data format for the interchange of GPS data (waypoints, routes, and tracks) between applications and Web services on the Internet. When done running this program, you will have a new GPX file which will have your tracks split into segments of 500 or less points, which will now work in any GPS
    2. If you have a Garmin unit and have their program called “Mapsource” loaded on you computer, you can what they call “filter” a large number of points into a smaller set. What this actually does is to remove points that it thinks are not necessary. I’m not sure how good this is because it would I suspect remove some of the bends in say a windy trail. But they have it, so hopefully it works! Just start Mapsource, load the tracks you want to “filter”, right click on the tracks and select “Track Properties” and then click on “Filter” – select the option you want (no more than 500 points) and select “OK”. You can now load this to your GPS.
    3. Other software will allow you to do basically the same thing as Mapsource about, but they call it “simplify” tracks. This means again that they will take a large number of points and try and reduce them using some kind of algorithm. I don’t have a lot of faith in this method, but they are there and that is what they do. There is one other situation this all comes into play, that is when you want to download other users tracks from websites so you can follow their route. I know that two of the major ones as of this writing handle the problem of a large number of tracks in different ways – WIKILOC – This website allows you to select the option of splitting a large number of track points into small segments. This will take care of everything. Most GPSs can handle multiple segments without any problems. Using this method you will get all the track points as they were uploaded. EVERYTRAIL – This website seems to reduce all uploaded tracks down to 200 track points. This will eliminate the 500 point problem, but it I’m not sure of how well it will reflect a windy trail.

    It is up to you to determine what your GPS unit can support. I suggest you look at your manual and also use “Google” to learn more about this subject. See my write-up on using WIKILOC downloaded tracks and waypoints for some more ideas.

    Track Line as Seen in Google Earth (click on picture to enlarge)

    How-To: Using GPS Coords in Google Earth

    In many of my entries I refer to "GPS Coords" - this is actually the latitude/longitude of the location I want you to look at. Your GPS unit's main function is to use satellites to determine where you are - recording the lat/long of the position. In order to see the place in Google Earth, you must have Google Earth desktop application available on your computer. If you do not have it or want to know more about it, see my writeup "How-To: Using Google Earth for Hiking" for more information. You can actually use the referenced lat/long in many applications, I'm just talking about Google Earth in this writeup.

    Here is what you do -
    • Start Google Earth if not already started
    • Check to insure the "Fly to" box is available on the left side of the screen - if not, hit "Ctrl-Alt-B" to show the sidebar
    • Enter the Lat/Long you want to lookup in the "Fly to" box (can use Copy & Paste)
    • Click on the magnifying glass icon to right of the "Fly to" box
    You should now "fly to" the location on the map. You now can zoom in and/or out to get a look at the location from the sky. The area picture might be a few years old, but it will give you an idea of the area. You can enter more if you want. By removing the checkmark next to any of the listed coords below the "Fly to" box they will not be shown on the map. You can "right-click" on an entry below the "Fly to" box and by selecting "properties" you can make the spot more descriptive.

    Moccasin Island Hunting Data

    This entry tries to address the hunting activity in the Moccasin Island Tract in Viera. I hiked it quite a few times during the winter of 2008-2009. Talking to people, hunters are always mentioned. I can see why if you try hiking it in the early winter months of November and December. During those months I have encountered a number of hunters heading out to try and bag their "trophy". Some had shotguns, while others carried some pretty impressive centerfire rifles. Most all of them where heading up into the northern section, around the Lake Winder area. While hiking up that way I have come across some of the hunters waiting for there beast of choice. Just about all of them where very nice and friendly, but I still didn't like there firepower! If you look at the map of the area you will see what areas are open to hunting, if you see a lot of vehicles in the parking lot - be aware of those areas! the SJRWMD seems to have hunting going on all winter, so be aware of the (see my hunting schedule in this blog). I would not go into their areas during deer hunting season - I have come across deer "stands" all over the St Johns River Area (SJRWMD). This is part of the River Lakes Conservation Area. So, my gemeral advice is just be watchful when you go to this area. The hunting activity is hight during the early winter and then slacks off to just about nothing after the first of the year. I have hiked the whole area and never had any trouble. I do keep an orange vest in my kit, just in case. I also try and wear brighter clothes. I always contend that it is more dangerous in a shopping center parking lot than out there hiking and enjoying the bueatiful area.

    Here is a breakdown of some of those hikes to give you an idea of what I encountered - I selected one from each month.
    November - A lot of hunter activity. The parking lot was full of hunters, all of them heading into the northern sections. I hiked up the northern corridor, out to Moccasin Island area. There certainly where more hunters than I felt comfortable with - but I still hiked. November is a very active hunting month
    December - The hunter activity seemed to be dropping off, didn't see that many hunters or their vehicles, but some where there. I hiked south, out towards Lake Washington
    January - No hunters noticed. I hiked south, out towards SJRWMD Persimmon Campsite and back to parking lot
    Febuary - Some hunters, not sure what they were hunting - snipe I believe along the river. I hiked south and around conservation area
    March - No hunters around, place to myself just about. I hiked up the northern corridor to Lake Winder and then back around Moccasin Island.
    April - No hunters noticed. I hiked the southern loop

    I suggest that you review my hunting calendar (Hunting Schedule) to see if any hunting is scheduled in the area. Hope this information helps.

    Items to Consider for a Dayhike

    My hiking life consists mainly of "dayhikes". I'm not much of a backpacker or an overnight camper. There are certain things I believe everyone alone should have, for yourself and if fellow hikers need your help. Believe it or not, I think the most important thing to have is a cellphone. I can not tell you how many times one of these have helped a hiker out. The next thing I always carry these days is a handheld GPS unit (my current one is a Garmin 60cx). There is no way I could have explored the areas I've explored without my GPS. I received my first GPS as a gift from a very good friend in 2003. Her gift has been a Godsend to me. Once you master the basics of a GPS unit you will never get lost, that is a guarantee! Now for the other things I use/need -
    • Hiking Boots - A good pair of boots or shoes designed for day hiking
      • Breathable boots when hiking in dry areas
      • Gore-Tex waterproof boots when hiking in wet area
    • Light Weight Socks - Get socks made for day hiking
    • Hiking Pants - Always wear long pants - bugs can be brutal
      • If doing a lot of bushwhacking, consider brier proof pants
    • Breathable T-Shirts - I have found that the new "moisture management T-shirts" are great for "sweat management" 
    • If going to do some wading, consider portable hipwaders or other boots which can be put on over your hiking boots
    • Water/liquids of course - I actually drink 32 ozs of water before I start a long day of hiking. If it is going to be a hot day, I freeze a Gatorade and take that with me for the boost of it!
    • Sunscreen - I use SPF50 to protect me as much as possible
    • Bugspray - I carry towelettes with 29% deet in my pack just in case
    • Walking stick - I use a lightweight wooden stick with a rubber tip - this depends on what you prefer. You also can use it as a weapon if attacked by a wild armadillo ;-}
    • Bandaids and alcohol rubs - just in case of cut or scrap
    • Blister pads - just in case you or anyone gets a mean blister
    • Snack/powerbar - something to give you a boost
    • Camera - To capture that "Kodak" moment
    • Flashlight - Small LED light source just in case
    • Hand Sanitizer - I use towelettes, other people use the stuff in a bottle
    • Camp Stool - This is handy thing to have to take a rest, eat lunch or just sit and enjoy nature (I use a Walkstool Comfort 45)
    • Good hat - I have a few I like, what I wear depends on the weather
    • Whistle - If you need to summon help, this will do the trick (yelling just doesn't work)
    • Plastic Bag - This can be used for your trash or "trail trash" found along the way
    • Advil or pain pill - Never know when one of these might come in handy
    • Fanny Pack or Backpack - To hold all the stuff 
    • Pepperspray - I carry it just in case I should encounter that animal who really doesn't like me or might be have rabies
    • Snake Gaiters - I do a lot of off trail exploring, so I have run into a far amount of snakes (I use TurtleSkin SnakeArmor's snake protection gaiters)
    • Personal Locator Device (PLD) - I have one of these just in case I get out of cellphone range
    • Sweatband - Put it under my hat, seems to just keep me a little dryer
    • Camp Toilet Paper - Never know when this might come in handy
    Some things other people need/use -
    • Camelbak Water Bladder - Allows drinking of water any time
    • Hiking poles - Like ski poles, great for taking the strain off the back
    • Compass - If you can read one they are great to have
    Some suggestions from readers
    • Umbrella - this can be a great thing to have - I do use one when the sun gets brutal and on those same days, to use in a thunderstorm
    I carry a variety of other items, not worth mentioning here. I also like a good, cold Gatorade when I get back to the car. If nothing else, it just tastes good!