Hal Scott Preserve Hiking

This is an interesting area to visit. It took me two days to hike the complete area. Most of what are called "trails" are actually roads leading through the area. It is a mostly a scrub area, with some forest where the Econlockhatchee River can be found. The complete area is surrounded by civilization, which is creeping up to the very edges of the preserve. There are few areas you can be in that you do not see some thing that is not manmade. From powerlines running through the middle, to the view of a coal burning power plant through the trees, to views of houses from many spots. That being said, it still is a very nice area to visit. Being that you are exposed to the open sky a good deal of the time, I recommend that you try the long hikes in the winter time. You have the option to hike, bike or ride your horse in it. Hal Scott Preserve borders RT528, you may have noticed Dallas Boulevard as you drove to/from Orlando. You can not get on Dallas Boulevard when going West on RT528, but there is an exit going East. I recommend getting to Dallas Boulevard by taking Maxim Parkway off RT520 and working your way back to the preserve. There are number of primitive campsites located in the preserve, these are located in the southern section of the preserve. The entrance is off Dallas Blvd in Wedgefield. From the entrance walk in about .3 miles to decide which way you want to go on the white trail.

Marked Trails -
  • White Trail Loop - listed as 4.3 miles. You must take the white trail to get to the other two trails. The "canal 3 campsite" is off the this trail. If your desire is to do the red trail, bear to the right at the trail intersection just outside the parking lot. If your going to do the yellow trail, bear to the left at the intersection. Intersection is at N28 29.170 W81 06.009
  • Yellow Trail Loop - listed as 6.3 miles. As mentioned before, you must take the white trail to get to this trail, which adds distance to the trip. There is a bridge you use to cross the Econlockhatchee River - this is a pretty section also. This loop is in the open, but you do get near a cypress swamp area where you could venture into if you so desire. I walked out one road at N28 29.659 W81 08.028 which was very nice, but then I emerged into a housing development, much to my surprise. Two of the primitive campsites are off this trail - Hancock and Yates Campsites. The entrance to this trail is at N28 28.962 W81 7.017
  • Red Trail Loop - listed as 6.1 miles. As mentioned before, you must take the white trail to get to this trail, which adds distance to the trip. Like the other trails, this is mainly just a road and is open most all the way. You cross under some pretty impressive powerlines at different times. At different spots you can explore the cypress areas if you so desire. The entrance to this trail is at N28 29.658 W81 07.436. There is a small stream you may have to ford at the beginning of the trail - the day I was there it was pretty dried up.
Trail View (Click to enlarge)


There are a couple of bridges over the Econlockhatchee River, with one being the main way to the yellow trail loop. There are a number of other ways to cross the river if you wish to do some exploring. While out exploring, I did find the old yellow trail and hiked that to give it a look. I have no idea why the powers to be decided to do away with that section of the trail, but they did. As I've said, I've hiked all the trails, as well as doing some exploring into some of the areas off the marked trails.

Here are the GPS coords for different items in the preserve
  • Parking area - N28 29.169 W81 05.823
  • White Trail Loop Start - N28 29.170 W81 06.009
  • Canal 3 Campsite - N28 28.649 W81 06.725
  • Old Yellow Trail Start - N28 28.611 W81 06.425
  • Hancock Campsite - N28 28.324 W81 07.010
  • Yates Campsite - N28 28.723 W81 07.223
  • Yellow Trail Start - N28 28.962 W81 7.017
  • Red Trail Start - N28 29.658 W81 07.436
So, the bottom line is that this is a nice place to get out and see a variety of Florida ecosystems. It can be a long hike, but I did enjoy my time in the area. I saw some wildlife and some flowers. I took a mess of pictures while hiking around. I think it is a very nice place to hike, bike and explore. Just make sure you bring plenty of water, as it can get pretty dry out there!

SJRWMD has provided a PDF brochure and trail map at http://www.sjrwmd.com/trailguides/pdfs/Hal_Scott_TG.pdf
My hikes at Hal Scott can be viewed/downloaded at - Hal Scott WIKILOC Hikes - just look for Hal Scott Hikes in list

Viera Wetlands Wildflowers and Grass

Update:
These photos were taken a few years ago (how time flies) - it seems during my recent visit all the flowers are gone! I am assuming that Brevard County has lost their interest in maintaining the beautiful flowers which once were so abundant around the berms. I guess they assume that people will come just to drive around the berms, sad!

Original Entry -
While out walking around the Viera Wetlands the other day I came across a mess of wildflowers and some pretty grass. Here are a few of the many, many pictures I took that day. Even being "shade blind" I still enjoy the bueaty of nature! Just double-click on a picture to see the screen size version. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.

Wildflowers and Grass - Click to Enlarge
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Water Lilies

This entry is dedicated to another item I find very beautiful - water lilies. These were all taken at the Viera Wetlands. Just double-click on a picture to see the screen size version. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.
Water Lilies - Click to Enlarge
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Positive Attitude

While watching a program on the History Channel the other day, I heard these words of wisdom - People think of danger out in the woods as snakes, wild hogs, bears, falling, etc - these are dangers, but a real danger is a person's attitude, if you go on a hike with a negative attitude, the hike is doomed! I always hike with a positive attitude! I'm always aware of what is going on around me, but the main thing is the hike and enjoying every minute of it. So the moral of this entry is, don't worry - enjoy the hike and the great outdoors! One other thing, a friend told me the other day that her brother-in-law got two broken legs -- while loading groceries into his car in a parking lot. It seems a little old lady hit the gas instead of the brake and ran right into him. Now where is the most dangerous area - a trail or a parking lot?

Hunting and Hiking

I am a hiker, not a hunter - but I believe both activities should coexist in the outdoors. As you may have noticed by now, I have ventured into many areas. As I decide where to hike, I always look to see if any hunting is scheduled for the day I expect to be in an area. I do this for two reasons, one I do not want to disturb hunters and two I don’t want hunters to mistake me for something to shoot. I always carry something orange with me when I go out hiking in the winter, be it an orange hat or vest - just in case. I have come across a few hunters in my day, most all of them were very courteous and friendly. I’m sure they were not happy to see me, but they didn’t show it. I also have come across the remnants of bad hunters, piles of trash and beer cans - those are the ones that worry me. They may even be poachers, which I’m sure are the most dangerous people out there. I have found the remains of dead deer and hogs in the woods; I would suspect they were killed just for the fun of it. This is not the norm, like everyone else; the majority of hunters must pay for the sins of the minority!
I am asked many times about hiking and hunting - I wish there was an easy answer. I tell everyone to avoid hunters, just because they have guns. In most areas there are blocks of time when hunting is not allowed in an area, try and visit areas during that time period. If you do encounter a hunter, be friendly and move on as soon as possible. Remember that their license fees are helping to support many areas. That said; remember also to support your local hiking group to ensure that land remains open to both hikers and hunters.

You can see a calendar of hunting schedules I've created by clicking here (Hunting Schedule). You also can view this calendar from any browser, anytime by using the address - www.tinyurl.com/techunts

You also can view hunting documents supplied by the State of Florida by clicking here (Florida Hunting Information). You can go directly there at any time by using this address in your browser - http://myfwc.com/RECREATION/Hunt_WMABrochs.htm

Happy trails to all, hikers and hunters.......

My Favorite Tree - the Cypress

As anyone who has viewed any of my pictures will tell you, I take a lot of pictures of Cypress Trees. I see so much in these trees as I'm out and around in Florida. Not only are many of trees very unique in their own way, many of the "knees" are also works of art. I feel bad when I see cypress mulch in the stores, I can not imagine that there are enough trees out there to support the mulch industry. The Tosohatchee WMA has one of the largest cypress forest around. It is located mainly along James Creek. Some of the prettiest cypress trees can be found along the St Johns River between RT50 and RT528. That area has provided me with some wonderful pictures. Below are a few of the pictures of many that I have taken while out and around. Just double click on a picture to see the screen size version. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
Cypress Trees and Trunk Sculptures - Click to Enlarge
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How-To: Download GPS Tracks and Waypoints from WIKILOC

This document will help you to download tracks and waypoints from the WIKILOC website. It should also help you with other hiking websites that allow downloading. Once the data is downloaded and loaded to your handheld GPS unit it can be used to follow the same route as the original hiker. FYI - GPS units store tracks as track "points". Track points are recorded at predetermined intervals (time, distance or both). Each track point contains all the data about that recorded spot (time, Lat/Lon and other stuff). To display a track "path", the track points are a linked together with a line (the line does not actually exist, it is just for display). So, during this writeup I will mention "track" or "track points", they are both the same. Every unit has a certain number of track points it can store, 10,000 being a common number. One problem is that many GPS units (Garmin I know of) allow only 500 track points to be loaded per segment (my 60cx for example). This is a major problem because the 500 track point limit causes large hikes to be truncated. If you download a hike with say 2000 track points and then try to load that to your GPS, you will only windup with the first 500 track points of the 2000 (thus you will only get the first 25% of the original hike). One way to get around this is to break the 2000 track points into 4 groups of 500 (called track segments). FYI - the problem with those Garmin units with 500 track point segment limit is that they have two areas where track points are stored -
  • Active Log Area - this is where the actual track points recorded by the GPS unit are stored - this area allows 10,000 track points to be stored (once the 10,000 limit is reached, recording either stops or it starts wrapping around (user setup)
  • Saved Log Area - This is where the unit saves tracks requested by the user (menu function). It allows multiple segments, but each segment can consist of no more than 500 track points, also no date/time data is stored with the track points
Now some people advocate that you load the downloaded hike in the "Active Log Area" (this is done by creating a "fake" Active Log) - if you do this you will pollute the area used by the GPS unit to store actual active tracks, so this is not recommended. As I stated earlier, what I recommend is to store downloaded tracks in the "Saved Log Area", using the segment feature of WIKILOC downloading. The WIKILOC download function has been modified to give you a number of options to handle track points, this was done so that all GPSs can handle downloads. The problem for you is to find out what your GPS can handle and select the correct option. Here are the options available - (note: these options only apply if the download contains more than 500 track points)
  • Original uploaded track points - select this if your unit has no problem with large track point files
  • Simplified track points - This option actually takes the big track point file and tries to compress it into 500 points. I do not recommend this selection, but it does work if your unit is restricted to 500 track points
  • Split into multiple segments - this option creates a bunch of small track point "segments" from the large track point file. I recommend this option if your unit is restricted to 500 point segments. The whole thing is given a unique Id, with each segment getting it's own unique number.
Here is a summary of the process using the software I recommend -
  • Download the tracks and waypoints as a GPX file from WIKILOC
  • Load the downloaded GPX file into "EasyGPS" program
  • Send/upload the tracks and waypoints to your GPS unit
You must always download the data using the "GPX" format. GPX format (GPS Exchange Format) is a data format for the interchange of GPS data (waypoints, routes, and tracks) between applications and Web services on the Internet. Most application dealing with GPSs recognize and know how to work with "GPX" formatted files. You really don’t need to know anything about the file format, just select to use it when given the option. Rather that explaining how to do it with each GPS vendors software, I will have you use a very good free package to handle the GPS loading. The program I recommend is "EasyGPS". If you do not have it already, go to this website, download and install it. EasyGPS’s website is http://www.easygps.com/default.asp One thing nice about EasyGPS, it will look to see if your unit can handle a load greater than 500 track points. Thus using EasyGPS, if I try and load a file with over 500 track points to my 60cx it will not allow it. I also recommend that you have a work folder on your computer to hold the downloaded GPX File - example name: Downloaded GPX Files The first time you use EasyGPS you will have to tell it what kind of GPS your are using. A setup screen will be presented to you when you first try to send data to your GPS, Downloading from WIKILOC -
  • Use Google Earth to find the hike you want to download or go to the Wikiloc website - you must get to the page with the "download" option - Screen Display (click on picture to enlarge)
  • Click on "Download" - select GPX file format, check that you want tracks split and check "include images" Screen Display (click on picture to enlarge) Note: You will only see the "Options" if the download contains more than 500 track points - if no options, just select "GPX" and continue
  • Click on "Download"
  • Now select the folder you setup to hold these files
  • Click on "Save"
Now when you are ready to load the data to your GPS - do this
  • Start EasyGPS
  • Select "Open" - from the menu or the toolbar
  • Find the GPX file which has the tracks split up (Example: Hal Scott Track Split File.GPX) and open it
  • You should now see the tracks map and also the waypoints listed on the left side Screen Display (click on picture to enlarge)
  • You can right-click on any waypoint to delete it if you feel you don’t want it (for example - there is a waypoint for a pine tree and you don’t want it)
  • Connect your GPS to your computer and turn it on (I normally make sure that my GPS is empty - reset it using menus)
  • Now select "Send" from the menu or the toolbar
  • A window should open with your GPS information in it (The first time you send data to your GPS you will have to define your GPS to EasyGPS)
  • Select "OK" - the data should now be loaded to your GPS
  • Disconnect your GPS from the computer
  • Exit out of EasyGPS
The tracks and waypoints should now be loaded to your GPS. Check to insure everything is OK. I normally go to my "Map" screen and look for the tracks - I have to zoom out to find the area. You also should use the waypoint "find" function to determine in the waypoints got loaded OK. To use the loaded data, see How-To: Using Downloaded Tracks and Waypoints

How-To: Using Downloaded Tracks on the Trail

In order to use downloaded tracks and waypoints, of course you must have downloaded them. If you have not done it already, download the hike/trip you want to use - see the blog entry for that. One thing you must not do, that is follow the tracks exactly. In many cases the tracks uploaded are uploaded just as they came from the GPS unit. Thus the tracks might contain little detours off the main trail, maybe to take a picture of a flower in the woods. You want to use common sense as your following the downloaded tracks. If you see the tracks on the screen taking you off the trail, you should adjust to the trail until the screen tracks are corrected. Here is what you generally do -
  • Get to the start of the tracks, could be a trailhead, parking lot or boat ramp You could use your GPS’s "find" function to get you there
  • If your GPS is not already on, turn it on - wait for good satellite reception
  • Find the tracks on the "Map" Screen
  • Start the trip
As you move along, watch the screen to make sure the position pointer stays on the tracks. If you see yourself moving too far away from the loaded tracks, adjust your position to get back on track. You can only use the loaded tracks as a "reference", just to see where you are vs where you might want to be. Get use to using the "Map" function. I might go on another trail just because it looks better. I can always find my back to the main trail using the "map" and "find" functions. I recently tested this using one of my downloaded hikes. The loaded track displayed on my Garmin unit's screen in blue, the little "pointer" showed my position on the track. I just kept the pointer on the loaded track and everything worked fine.

My 60cx Tracks page with WIKILOC tracks in the "Saved Tracks" area

My 60cx map screen - see the tracks in black


Remember, when the hike is over and you have done any downloading of the data etc, that you delete the saved tracks, as they take up space in your unit's memory.

GPS Units Explained By Me

I get a lot of questions about GPS units, normally I just tell people to do more research using the Internet. I have decided to try and explain the units in my fashion. I still feel you can gleam a lot of information by doing some research, so do that also. A GPS unit is nothing but a computer which has a special chip in it which can receive and pass on satellite information to the GPS computer. The GPS computer uses the satellite data to determine the latitude/longitude (lat/long) where the GPS unit is. It would be nice if it could actually calculate the exact lat/long, but that is not possible. It gets as close as it can and uses that. There are two reasons why it can not calculate the exact lat/long - 1. The Defense Department does not allow manufacturers to do it - they say for national security 2. How good the unit is receiving satellite data - that mainly depends on the quality of the special chip in the unit and the type of antenna in the unit. You can not do anything about #1, but #2 lives by that old rule - the more you pay, the better the reception. Currently the buzz words are "high-sensitivity chip" and" external antenna". Garmin uses the "X" in their model numbers to reflect that the unit has a high-sensitivity chip. Sadly, there are cheaper versions of this chip being put in units, so you just don't know. What the high-sensitivity chips and external antennas provide is better reception in the woods and on cloudy days, thus better accuracy. If your using the unit for hiking, accuracy can be a little more lax then if your using the unit for say, GEOCaching. Some units have a feature called "WAAS" - it is designed to improve accuracy. Do a Google search on it if you want to know more about it. If your unit has the feature, turn it on - it does use more battery life, but not much. Now the fundamentals of all handheld GPS units
  • Waypoints - locations or landmarks stored in your GPS for reference. All GPS units allow you to "mark" a position which you may want to return to or you may want to go to. A classical waypoint is the place you parked the car, so if necessary you can find your way back to it. Another waypoint might be a place on the trail you want to remember, say were you got water. Most units can store upwards of a 1000 waypoints, so use them. You can use the "find" function of your GPS to see any waypoints recorded in your unit. That is why it is very important to give new waypoints a logical label - like "parking". Thus if you had to get back to the parking area, you would be able to recognize the label in the waypoint list.
  • Tracks - "breadcrumbs" recorded by the GPS unit of where you have been. Tracks are actually stored in the unit as "points". Each point is an individual database record containing all kinds of data about the spot that the recording was made - mainly the lat/long and time. Each point is like a waypoint, but it is recorded by the unit instead of you. Imagine if as you hiked along you had to push the "mark" button every 3 feet or so, well the unit is doing that for you - just storing the data in a different place. The track points are displayed as a line on maps, but that is just the software connecting the points (that is where the time comes into play).
  • Statistical data - this referred to as "trip data". All kinds of information is stored about a trip - moving time, stopped time. average speed and much more.
The main problem with all the units I have been exposed to is they do not allow multiple trips to be stored in the GPS unit. They store all the data, but they do not allow you to store each trip's data separately. So, lets say you go on two hikes and don't reset the data between each trip - when you get home and download the data to the computer all the waypoints will be mixed together, the tracks will be separate (as long as you turned the unit off between each trip), but a little confusing. The "trip data" will reflect just one set of totals - so you will not know say the time of spent on each trip. Waypoints and tracks can be split out pretty easily, but trip data can not. The only way I know of to get around that is to write down the trip data after the first trip, then reset the trip data to prepare for the second trip - do not reset the waypoints and tracks until you have downloaded then to your computer. Of course, if you don't care about the historical value of the the waypoints and tracks, than you could reset them also before the second trip. I always save my trip data to my computer before resetting them. So, learn how your unit handles waypoints, tracks and trip data. It is not necessary to know that much about lat/long - just be aware that every spot on earth has a unique lat/long and it's your GPSs function to determine the current lat/long. As I mentioned the before, your GPS unit can be used to take you to a recorded waypoint. Lets say you get lost and want to get back to the parking area. Assuming you created a waypoint for parking and labeled it well - just use the "find" function to find it in the list of waypoints. Then select "goto" and the unit will point directly at the parking area. This is "as the crow flies", you are not a crow, so you must work you way back using trails, paths etc. You have to use common sense when using the "goto" function, don't' go into a "bushwhack" mode - use logic to get back to the parking area. A feature seldom used is called "trackback". This function actually tells you exactly how you got to a spot and how to back out of it if you are lost. Each unit handles this differently, so read your manual and become familiar with this function. FYI - GEOCaches are just waypoints to your GPS unit - they have an icon which is used by some units to handle them in a special way. So, my rules are
  • Record a lot of waypoints
  • Download and save your data
  • Keep your unit clean - reset everything after every save or trip
Look at my other entries on GPS units for more information.

Information: Handheld GPS Units and Hiking

You are never lost if you don’t care where you are. Most of us though, do care. I am a great believer in handheld GPS units. I have been using one since 2003. A handheld GPS unit is designed to be used outdoors, unlike the unit you find in cars. The newer units are quite sophisticated, actual much more than is necessary. GPS units are like cars, there are a mess of manufacturers and models out there, each one appealing to different types of people. I use mine for both hiking and Geocaching. I can not really tell you which one to buy, I currently have a Garmin 60cx and am quite pleased with it. If you search the Internet you will find a great deal of information about GPS units, so I will not go into details about anything you can find out just by doing a little research. Make sure you set your unit up to your tastes, everyone seems to like the data presented in a different fashion - that is not a problem as long as you understand it! What I'm going to talk about is using your unit for hiking. Every GPS unit has the following basic functionality -
  • Determine your current longitude and latitude - one use for this is if you ever get lost and have to call for help, you just have to provide your rescuers with the lat/lon and they can get to you
  • "Mark" your current position (called a waypoint) - this is used for future reference or as a place to possibly get back to, like the parking area
  • Keep track of where you have been - these are called "tracks". These are used to reference where you have been or a means to "backtrack" if you get lost
This is my hiking GPS regiment - Before the hike begins I do this -
  • Clear out all waypoints and tracks (reseting both)
  • Download any tracks and waypoints I might need on the hike (normally only waypoints of places I might want to go to)
  • Recharge the batteries (I only use rechargeable batteries)
  • Pack it in a place where I won't forget it
When I get to the hiking site and I'm all ready to use it -
  • Turn unit on, wait for satellite reception (must have that)
  • If nothing has been downloaded, I will reset the unit one more time - cleaning out tracks and waypoints - I always reset the "trip computer" function so I know at all times how far I have hiked
  • Create a waypoint of where the car is parked - "mark the spot"
  • Start the hike
As I'm hiking -
  • I will check the map screen every so often to see how my tracks are - you should see a line on the screen showing where you have gone
  • "Mark" waypoints of different spots along the trail - this could be an interesting spot, a place where the trail splits, where I saw a certain flower or animal, where I had lunch - whatever I feel might be good to look back at later or I might need to get back too. I enter a short name for each waypoint I enter.
  • At times, use the unit to bring me to a preentered destination or bring me back to a previous entered destination, like the parking area. This function is what I use it for mostly.
  • If necessary, I can always use the tracks data to figure out where the trail I took is and how to get back to it. There is a true "backtrack" function, but that is really only used in case you really, really get lost.
End of hike -
  • I always turn the unit off when I get back to the car, this preserves the trip data (mileage, walking time, stopped time, avg speed etc). If I am going to use the unit on another hike that day, I write down the trip data so I can record each hikes data when I get home
When I get home -
  • Download all the data to my PC (I use Garmin's Mapsource Program)
  • Edit all the waypoint names I entered in the field (example: pk1 is changed to parking)
  • Save the cleaned up waypoints and tracks to a file and place it in a "hiking" folder for future reference
  • Pass the tracks and waypoints to Google Earth so I can see what my hiked looked like from that viewpoint
That is pretty much how I use my GPS for hiking. This may seem like a lot of things to do, but most of them are necessary to insure that you don't get lost on a hike. I must say it again, I love my GPS! I wouldn't go out in the woods depending on instincts alone - if for no other reason help can be told exactly where you are. There are some specialty units out there which can actually report your positions to family and/or friends on a "realtime" basis. They can see where you are on their computer screens. This was as of 2009, who knows what is available as you read this. Please consider buying a GPS and then make sure you learn how to use it. If you have one already and are not using it, learn how to use it. Like everything in this world, handheld GPS units improve each year. The one thing you should make sure your unit has is a "high sensitivity" chipset. These chipsets do a much better job of determining your lat/lon than older chipsets. I have helped many, many people with their GPS units - in almost all cases they learned to use them and feel much more secure in the field. I certainly haven't learned all the functions of my units, so the reference manual is always available if needed. So learn how to do the above things and keep the reference manual for backup. Happy and safe trails to all!

How-To: Using Google Earth for Hiking

This is about Google Earth and how it can help hikers. I feel that every hiker should have a copy of Google Earth on their computer. This computer program is great for scouting out areas to hike. Many people have uploaded photos and actual hiking history for many parts of the world to Google Earth. If you have an area in mind to hike, you can view that area using Google Earth and in many cases get an idea of what you will encounter using the photos and GPS Tracks that might be available there. Even if there are no photos or tracks, you can still get an idea of what the area looks like from Google Earth’s aerial views. Hiking with a handheld GPS unit is a great way to hike for security, but now you can actually download from Google Earth to your GPS unit someone else’s hiking history in the form of tracks to use when you get to your hiking destination.

Google Earth is free, but there are some computer restrictions on using it. You must have at least Windows XP (GE does run on a MAC) and also have a broadband connection (DSL, cable, etc). It is a memory hog, so the more memory you have, the better it will run. If you have a broadband connection and have not yet loaded Google Earth on your computer, go to http://earth.google.com/ and select the download. Note: if you have trouble with the normal download page, give this one a try - http://earth.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=168344

Your mouse is very important tool in using Google Earth.
Its button functions are:
Mouse Wheel – use this to zoom in and out the aerial view - “up” zooms in, “down” zooms out
Left Mouse Button – hold it down and move the mouse around to “fly” around the map
Right Mouse Button – hold it down to also control zooming and pitching Screen

Things to notice:
-- On the very bottom of the screen is the latitude and longitude (lat/long) of the position of the cursor. You can pass this data on to fellow hikers if you want them to look at the spot you are looking at. Just give them the lat/long as it is displayed. They would type that into the “search” box and then they would “fly” to that location
-- At the bottom left corner of the satellite view is the date the image was taken (i.e. Imagery Date). This is the month and year the aerial photo was taken. This will give you an idea of how old the view is
-- View clarity. Some views are clearer than others as you zoom in. The clarity of the view depends on how the aerial photo was taken. Some are taken with High Definition cameras, others are taken with less sophisticated cameras. You will normally see better photos in high-profile areas. The woods of Maine might be just a blur so the aerial photographers could save money.

I also recommend you do not save a lot of places. Each place you save in the “Places” sidebar is loaded when you load Google Earth. If you want to save places, save them as files that can be loaded later. Right-click on a place and select “delete” to remove it if you don’t want it. To save a place, right-click on it, select “Save place as..”, select a folder to save it in, give it a name and save it. If you want to temporarily hide a place, just remove the checkmark next to it and it will be suppressed. You can put the checkmark back to see it on the map again. There are endless things you can do, just explore with caution; “shooting from the hip” can get you into real trouble.

Once Google Earth is installed on your computer, start the program and make sure the Search/Places/Layers sidebar is displayed on the left side of the screen. If it is not, click “View” in the menu at the top of the screen and then click “Sidebar” to put a checkmark next to it. The sidebar should now be visible. Now you may want to look at the program’s options, making any changes you deem necessary. This is pretty advanced, so you may want to leave it as is until you know more about the workings of Google Earth. You get to options by clicking on “Tools” in the menu line, then “Options”.
Next, set a “starting location”. This will force Google Earth to go to that location each time it starts up. A starting location could be your neighborhood, someplace you like to hike, or the “center” of your world.
The procedure to do this is:
1. Zero in to a starting location by using the mouse wheel to zoom, and by holding the left mouse button down to “drag” the earth. Or you could type an address in the “Fly to” search box and then click on the magnifying glass to zero in to a starting location.
2. Move the cursor to the spot you want to start at
3. Click on “View” in the menu bar to open it
4. Click on “Make this my start location”

Google Earth works with base maps and allows “layers” to overlay the base map. You can turn “layers” on or off, depending on what you like. You will find the available layers in the section titled “Layers” in the “Sidebar” on the left side of your screen. Some layers have additional layers beneath them. To see all the layers beneath a top layer, just click on the “+” next to the layer name.
I suggest you turn on the following layers to help you in your hiking:
Roads – This will have GE display the road names on the map
Under Photos:
-- Panoramio – This will allow you to see dots in areas that can be clicked on to see photos. Usually, as you zoom in, more photo dots will appear.
Under Gallery:
-- Everytrail – This will display a clickable icon on the map where there is a hike defined by the Everytrail.com website.
-- Wikiloc – This will display a clickable “hiking” icon on the map where there is a hike defined by the Wikiloc website.
You can experiment with other layers if you want, but for hiking I feel the above layers are the best to use.

Here is how I feel hikers can use Google Earth. Say you want to go on a hike in Tosohatchee Wildlife Management Area. You would pan over to that spot using the mouse wheel and the left mouse button. As you zoom in on the area you will see a number of dots, which are photo dots. You could click on the dots to see photos of the different areas. You would also see hiking icons. You could click on these to see what hikes have been done by other people and uploaded to the Wikiloc or Everytrail website. If you like a hike, you could print it out (see the websites for help) or download it to your GPS. Once in your GPS (all units load tracks a different way, check your unit’s instructions for help), you could use the data as a reference when you do the hike. You also could zoom into an area that has no photos or hiking data to see what it looks like and maybe find a way to get to it. That is what I did for many of the hikes I have uploaded. I found what looked like an interesting hiking destination on Google Earth and then tried to figure a way to hike it. I find Google Earth to be a valuable tool in my hiking arsenal. I hope this article helps you, too, realize its value. If you have questions, use the help function in Google Earth or use Google searches to look up things.

How-To: Using Computer Program to "Split" a Large Track File

As I've mentioned in other blog entries about how some GPS Units don't allow you to load uploaded tracks with more than 500 track "points". As with everything there are many ways to fix a problem, this is just one of them. When done with this program you will have a new GPX File which can be used by any GPS handheld unit

Process Overview

  • Create a GPX file from your tracks - Garmin's Mapsource program allows you to save it's files in GPX format
  • Run program GPX Track Splitter
  • Load created GPX file back into your software - Garmin's Mapsource program reads GPX files
  • You will now have multiple track segments - each 500 track points or less

You will have to download and install on your computer the program "GPX Track Splitter" from this website http://sites.google.com/site/gpxtracksplitter/ (go to attachment section at the bottom of page). After doing the download, you will have to place it in a folder to be used - there is no "install" function.

Split the track points into blocks of 500

  • Start program "GPX Track Splitter"
  • Make sure "Delete Source Tracks" is checked
  • Make sure "Ask for Name of Tracks" is the selected option
  • Select "Open" and select the GPX file you downloaded
  • Use cursor to put checkmark next to the GPX file listed in the box on the left (word "Split" should now be bold)
  • Click on word "Split" in the lower right
  • A name box should now open up - enter a short name for the split track files (Example: HalScott)
  • Click "Save" in lower right corner - when file window opens up, select the folder you want to put it in and give it a logical name (Example: Hal Scott Track Split File.GPX)
  • You are now done with this program, close it
  • You will now have a GPX file which you can be used by many programs to load the tracks to your GPS. You can see my blog entry about using downloaded tracks from WIKILOC (http://tomchoma.blogspot.com/2009/04/this-entry-will-hopefully-help-you-to.html)

    GPS Information: Track Points and The 500 Point Limit

    For those who don’t know much or anything about track “points”, here is a little overview of that – whenever you turn your GPS on it starts recording what use to be called “bread crumbs” to record where you have been. These are now called “track points”. A track point is recorded at different intervals, depending on how your unit is configured. It could be every 5 feet or every 5 seconds or whatever. The track point history can be used in many ways, one of the most vital is getting you back the way you came if you get lost or just confused – this is normally called “back tracking”. What I use them for is to record my hiking/boating history. When I get back from a trip, I download this and my waypoint data to my computer and save it for later trips. Now most all GPS software and GPS units display the points, but they also connect the points so that you see lines and can better determine your path. The thing to remember is that there are only “points”; the lines are just displayed for your viewing. Now comes a problem with certain GPS units, they can store up to 10,000 points for recording, but only allow 500 points to reloaded to the unit. Now this is strange and is a problem with certain Garmin units for sure. What that means is that if you took a hike that consisted of 2200 points and when you got home downloaded that to your software, that would be fine. The 2200 points would be downloaded and stored for viewing and possible later use. Well, the day comes you want to use it; you upload it to your Garmin unit. Low and behold only the first 500 points of the 2200 actually are loaded to your unit. That would mean that only a portion of the hike would be available, the rest would be lost. Some software would have warned you of this problem, while others would just let you find out when you got to the end of the 500 points. What can you do about this problem? I suggest first, make sure it is a problem with your GPS, read the manual or ask. If it is not a problem, that is great, if is a problem, here are some solutions –
    1. You could download and install a program "GPX Track Splitter" from this website http://sites.google.com/site/gpxtracksplitter/ (look at attachments section - bottom of page). It is a pretty simple program which does not have any means to simply install it, you have to place it in a folder to be used. It is a very nice program, which does the trick – just not that user friendly. You will also have to insure that the tracks you want to split are stored in a file using “GPX" format. GPX format (GPS Exchange Format) is a data format for the interchange of GPS data (waypoints, routes, and tracks) between applications and Web services on the Internet. When done running this program, you will have a new GPX file which will have your tracks split into segments of 500 or less points, which will now work in any GPS
    2. If you have a Garmin unit and have their program called “Mapsource” loaded on you computer, you can what they call “filter” a large number of points into a smaller set. What this actually does is to remove points that it thinks are not necessary. I’m not sure how good this is because it would I suspect remove some of the bends in say a windy trail. But they have it, so hopefully it works! Just start Mapsource, load the tracks you want to “filter”, right click on the tracks and select “Track Properties” and then click on “Filter” – select the option you want (no more than 500 points) and select “OK”. You can now load this to your GPS.
    3. Other software will allow you to do basically the same thing as Mapsource about, but they call it “simplify” tracks. This means again that they will take a large number of points and try and reduce them using some kind of algorithm. I don’t have a lot of faith in this method, but they are there and that is what they do. There is one other situation this all comes into play, that is when you want to download other users tracks from websites so you can follow their route. I know that two of the major ones as of this writing handle the problem of a large number of tracks in different ways – WIKILOC – This website allows you to select the option of splitting a large number of track points into small segments. This will take care of everything. Most GPSs can handle multiple segments without any problems. Using this method you will get all the track points as they were uploaded. EVERYTRAIL – This website seems to reduce all uploaded tracks down to 200 track points. This will eliminate the 500 point problem, but it I’m not sure of how well it will reflect a windy trail.

    It is up to you to determine what your GPS unit can support. I suggest you look at your manual and also use “Google” to learn more about this subject. See my write-up on using WIKILOC downloaded tracks and waypoints for some more ideas.

    Track Line as Seen in Google Earth (click on picture to enlarge)