Showing posts with label How-To. Show all posts
Showing posts with label How-To. Show all posts

How-To: Download GPS Tracks and Waypoints from WIKILOC

This document will help you to download tracks and waypoints from the WIKILOC website. It should also help you with other hiking websites that allow downloading. Once the data is downloaded and loaded to your handheld GPS unit it can be used to follow the same route as the original hiker. FYI - GPS units store tracks as track "points". Track points are recorded at predetermined intervals (time, distance or both). Each track point contains all the data about that recorded spot (time, Lat/Lon and other stuff). To display a track "path", the track points are a linked together with a line (the line does not actually exist, it is just for display). So, during this writeup I will mention "track" or "track points", they are both the same. Every unit has a certain number of track points it can store, 10,000 being a common number. One problem is that many GPS units (Garmin I know of) allow only 500 track points to be loaded per segment (my 60cx for example). This is a major problem because the 500 track point limit causes large hikes to be truncated. If you download a hike with say 2000 track points and then try to load that to your GPS, you will only windup with the first 500 track points of the 2000 (thus you will only get the first 25% of the original hike). One way to get around this is to break the 2000 track points into 4 groups of 500 (called track segments). FYI - the problem with those Garmin units with 500 track point segment limit is that they have two areas where track points are stored -
  • Active Log Area - this is where the actual track points recorded by the GPS unit are stored - this area allows 10,000 track points to be stored (once the 10,000 limit is reached, recording either stops or it starts wrapping around (user setup)
  • Saved Log Area - This is where the unit saves tracks requested by the user (menu function). It allows multiple segments, but each segment can consist of no more than 500 track points, also no date/time data is stored with the track points
Now some people advocate that you load the downloaded hike in the "Active Log Area" (this is done by creating a "fake" Active Log) - if you do this you will pollute the area used by the GPS unit to store actual active tracks, so this is not recommended. As I stated earlier, what I recommend is to store downloaded tracks in the "Saved Log Area", using the segment feature of WIKILOC downloading. The WIKILOC download function has been modified to give you a number of options to handle track points, this was done so that all GPSs can handle downloads. The problem for you is to find out what your GPS can handle and select the correct option. Here are the options available - (note: these options only apply if the download contains more than 500 track points)
  • Original uploaded track points - select this if your unit has no problem with large track point files
  • Simplified track points - This option actually takes the big track point file and tries to compress it into 500 points. I do not recommend this selection, but it does work if your unit is restricted to 500 track points
  • Split into multiple segments - this option creates a bunch of small track point "segments" from the large track point file. I recommend this option if your unit is restricted to 500 point segments. The whole thing is given a unique Id, with each segment getting it's own unique number.
Here is a summary of the process using the software I recommend -
  • Download the tracks and waypoints as a GPX file from WIKILOC
  • Load the downloaded GPX file into "EasyGPS" program
  • Send/upload the tracks and waypoints to your GPS unit
You must always download the data using the "GPX" format. GPX format (GPS Exchange Format) is a data format for the interchange of GPS data (waypoints, routes, and tracks) between applications and Web services on the Internet. Most application dealing with GPSs recognize and know how to work with "GPX" formatted files. You really don’t need to know anything about the file format, just select to use it when given the option. Rather that explaining how to do it with each GPS vendors software, I will have you use a very good free package to handle the GPS loading. The program I recommend is "EasyGPS". If you do not have it already, go to this website, download and install it. EasyGPS’s website is http://www.easygps.com/default.asp One thing nice about EasyGPS, it will look to see if your unit can handle a load greater than 500 track points. Thus using EasyGPS, if I try and load a file with over 500 track points to my 60cx it will not allow it. I also recommend that you have a work folder on your computer to hold the downloaded GPX File - example name: Downloaded GPX Files The first time you use EasyGPS you will have to tell it what kind of GPS your are using. A setup screen will be presented to you when you first try to send data to your GPS, Downloading from WIKILOC -
  • Use Google Earth to find the hike you want to download or go to the Wikiloc website - you must get to the page with the "download" option - Screen Display (click on picture to enlarge)
  • Click on "Download" - select GPX file format, check that you want tracks split and check "include images" Screen Display (click on picture to enlarge) Note: You will only see the "Options" if the download contains more than 500 track points - if no options, just select "GPX" and continue
  • Click on "Download"
  • Now select the folder you setup to hold these files
  • Click on "Save"
Now when you are ready to load the data to your GPS - do this
  • Start EasyGPS
  • Select "Open" - from the menu or the toolbar
  • Find the GPX file which has the tracks split up (Example: Hal Scott Track Split File.GPX) and open it
  • You should now see the tracks map and also the waypoints listed on the left side Screen Display (click on picture to enlarge)
  • You can right-click on any waypoint to delete it if you feel you don’t want it (for example - there is a waypoint for a pine tree and you don’t want it)
  • Connect your GPS to your computer and turn it on (I normally make sure that my GPS is empty - reset it using menus)
  • Now select "Send" from the menu or the toolbar
  • A window should open with your GPS information in it (The first time you send data to your GPS you will have to define your GPS to EasyGPS)
  • Select "OK" - the data should now be loaded to your GPS
  • Disconnect your GPS from the computer
  • Exit out of EasyGPS
The tracks and waypoints should now be loaded to your GPS. Check to insure everything is OK. I normally go to my "Map" screen and look for the tracks - I have to zoom out to find the area. You also should use the waypoint "find" function to determine in the waypoints got loaded OK. To use the loaded data, see How-To: Using Downloaded Tracks and Waypoints

How-To: Using Downloaded Tracks on the Trail

In order to use downloaded tracks and waypoints, of course you must have downloaded them. If you have not done it already, download the hike/trip you want to use - see the blog entry for that. One thing you must not do, that is follow the tracks exactly. In many cases the tracks uploaded are uploaded just as they came from the GPS unit. Thus the tracks might contain little detours off the main trail, maybe to take a picture of a flower in the woods. You want to use common sense as your following the downloaded tracks. If you see the tracks on the screen taking you off the trail, you should adjust to the trail until the screen tracks are corrected. Here is what you generally do -
  • Get to the start of the tracks, could be a trailhead, parking lot or boat ramp You could use your GPS’s "find" function to get you there
  • If your GPS is not already on, turn it on - wait for good satellite reception
  • Find the tracks on the "Map" Screen
  • Start the trip
As you move along, watch the screen to make sure the position pointer stays on the tracks. If you see yourself moving too far away from the loaded tracks, adjust your position to get back on track. You can only use the loaded tracks as a "reference", just to see where you are vs where you might want to be. Get use to using the "Map" function. I might go on another trail just because it looks better. I can always find my back to the main trail using the "map" and "find" functions. I recently tested this using one of my downloaded hikes. The loaded track displayed on my Garmin unit's screen in blue, the little "pointer" showed my position on the track. I just kept the pointer on the loaded track and everything worked fine.

My 60cx Tracks page with WIKILOC tracks in the "Saved Tracks" area

My 60cx map screen - see the tracks in black


Remember, when the hike is over and you have done any downloading of the data etc, that you delete the saved tracks, as they take up space in your unit's memory.

Information: Handheld GPS Units and Hiking

You are never lost if you don’t care where you are. Most of us though, do care. I am a great believer in handheld GPS units. I have been using one since 2003. A handheld GPS unit is designed to be used outdoors, unlike the unit you find in cars. The newer units are quite sophisticated, actual much more than is necessary. GPS units are like cars, there are a mess of manufacturers and models out there, each one appealing to different types of people. I use mine for both hiking and Geocaching. I can not really tell you which one to buy, I currently have a Garmin 60cx and am quite pleased with it. If you search the Internet you will find a great deal of information about GPS units, so I will not go into details about anything you can find out just by doing a little research. Make sure you set your unit up to your tastes, everyone seems to like the data presented in a different fashion - that is not a problem as long as you understand it! What I'm going to talk about is using your unit for hiking. Every GPS unit has the following basic functionality -
  • Determine your current longitude and latitude - one use for this is if you ever get lost and have to call for help, you just have to provide your rescuers with the lat/lon and they can get to you
  • "Mark" your current position (called a waypoint) - this is used for future reference or as a place to possibly get back to, like the parking area
  • Keep track of where you have been - these are called "tracks". These are used to reference where you have been or a means to "backtrack" if you get lost
This is my hiking GPS regiment - Before the hike begins I do this -
  • Clear out all waypoints and tracks (reseting both)
  • Download any tracks and waypoints I might need on the hike (normally only waypoints of places I might want to go to)
  • Recharge the batteries (I only use rechargeable batteries)
  • Pack it in a place where I won't forget it
When I get to the hiking site and I'm all ready to use it -
  • Turn unit on, wait for satellite reception (must have that)
  • If nothing has been downloaded, I will reset the unit one more time - cleaning out tracks and waypoints - I always reset the "trip computer" function so I know at all times how far I have hiked
  • Create a waypoint of where the car is parked - "mark the spot"
  • Start the hike
As I'm hiking -
  • I will check the map screen every so often to see how my tracks are - you should see a line on the screen showing where you have gone
  • "Mark" waypoints of different spots along the trail - this could be an interesting spot, a place where the trail splits, where I saw a certain flower or animal, where I had lunch - whatever I feel might be good to look back at later or I might need to get back too. I enter a short name for each waypoint I enter.
  • At times, use the unit to bring me to a preentered destination or bring me back to a previous entered destination, like the parking area. This function is what I use it for mostly.
  • If necessary, I can always use the tracks data to figure out where the trail I took is and how to get back to it. There is a true "backtrack" function, but that is really only used in case you really, really get lost.
End of hike -
  • I always turn the unit off when I get back to the car, this preserves the trip data (mileage, walking time, stopped time, avg speed etc). If I am going to use the unit on another hike that day, I write down the trip data so I can record each hikes data when I get home
When I get home -
  • Download all the data to my PC (I use Garmin's Mapsource Program)
  • Edit all the waypoint names I entered in the field (example: pk1 is changed to parking)
  • Save the cleaned up waypoints and tracks to a file and place it in a "hiking" folder for future reference
  • Pass the tracks and waypoints to Google Earth so I can see what my hiked looked like from that viewpoint
That is pretty much how I use my GPS for hiking. This may seem like a lot of things to do, but most of them are necessary to insure that you don't get lost on a hike. I must say it again, I love my GPS! I wouldn't go out in the woods depending on instincts alone - if for no other reason help can be told exactly where you are. There are some specialty units out there which can actually report your positions to family and/or friends on a "realtime" basis. They can see where you are on their computer screens. This was as of 2009, who knows what is available as you read this. Please consider buying a GPS and then make sure you learn how to use it. If you have one already and are not using it, learn how to use it. Like everything in this world, handheld GPS units improve each year. The one thing you should make sure your unit has is a "high sensitivity" chipset. These chipsets do a much better job of determining your lat/lon than older chipsets. I have helped many, many people with their GPS units - in almost all cases they learned to use them and feel much more secure in the field. I certainly haven't learned all the functions of my units, so the reference manual is always available if needed. So learn how to do the above things and keep the reference manual for backup. Happy and safe trails to all!

How-To: Using Google Earth for Hiking

This is about Google Earth and how it can help hikers. I feel that every hiker should have a copy of Google Earth on their computer. This computer program is great for scouting out areas to hike. Many people have uploaded photos and actual hiking history for many parts of the world to Google Earth. If you have an area in mind to hike, you can view that area using Google Earth and in many cases get an idea of what you will encounter using the photos and GPS Tracks that might be available there. Even if there are no photos or tracks, you can still get an idea of what the area looks like from Google Earth’s aerial views. Hiking with a handheld GPS unit is a great way to hike for security, but now you can actually download from Google Earth to your GPS unit someone else’s hiking history in the form of tracks to use when you get to your hiking destination.

Google Earth is free, but there are some computer restrictions on using it. You must have at least Windows XP (GE does run on a MAC) and also have a broadband connection (DSL, cable, etc). It is a memory hog, so the more memory you have, the better it will run. If you have a broadband connection and have not yet loaded Google Earth on your computer, go to http://earth.google.com/ and select the download. Note: if you have trouble with the normal download page, give this one a try - http://earth.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=168344

Your mouse is very important tool in using Google Earth.
Its button functions are:
Mouse Wheel – use this to zoom in and out the aerial view - “up” zooms in, “down” zooms out
Left Mouse Button – hold it down and move the mouse around to “fly” around the map
Right Mouse Button – hold it down to also control zooming and pitching Screen

Things to notice:
-- On the very bottom of the screen is the latitude and longitude (lat/long) of the position of the cursor. You can pass this data on to fellow hikers if you want them to look at the spot you are looking at. Just give them the lat/long as it is displayed. They would type that into the “search” box and then they would “fly” to that location
-- At the bottom left corner of the satellite view is the date the image was taken (i.e. Imagery Date). This is the month and year the aerial photo was taken. This will give you an idea of how old the view is
-- View clarity. Some views are clearer than others as you zoom in. The clarity of the view depends on how the aerial photo was taken. Some are taken with High Definition cameras, others are taken with less sophisticated cameras. You will normally see better photos in high-profile areas. The woods of Maine might be just a blur so the aerial photographers could save money.

I also recommend you do not save a lot of places. Each place you save in the “Places” sidebar is loaded when you load Google Earth. If you want to save places, save them as files that can be loaded later. Right-click on a place and select “delete” to remove it if you don’t want it. To save a place, right-click on it, select “Save place as..”, select a folder to save it in, give it a name and save it. If you want to temporarily hide a place, just remove the checkmark next to it and it will be suppressed. You can put the checkmark back to see it on the map again. There are endless things you can do, just explore with caution; “shooting from the hip” can get you into real trouble.

Once Google Earth is installed on your computer, start the program and make sure the Search/Places/Layers sidebar is displayed on the left side of the screen. If it is not, click “View” in the menu at the top of the screen and then click “Sidebar” to put a checkmark next to it. The sidebar should now be visible. Now you may want to look at the program’s options, making any changes you deem necessary. This is pretty advanced, so you may want to leave it as is until you know more about the workings of Google Earth. You get to options by clicking on “Tools” in the menu line, then “Options”.
Next, set a “starting location”. This will force Google Earth to go to that location each time it starts up. A starting location could be your neighborhood, someplace you like to hike, or the “center” of your world.
The procedure to do this is:
1. Zero in to a starting location by using the mouse wheel to zoom, and by holding the left mouse button down to “drag” the earth. Or you could type an address in the “Fly to” search box and then click on the magnifying glass to zero in to a starting location.
2. Move the cursor to the spot you want to start at
3. Click on “View” in the menu bar to open it
4. Click on “Make this my start location”

Google Earth works with base maps and allows “layers” to overlay the base map. You can turn “layers” on or off, depending on what you like. You will find the available layers in the section titled “Layers” in the “Sidebar” on the left side of your screen. Some layers have additional layers beneath them. To see all the layers beneath a top layer, just click on the “+” next to the layer name.
I suggest you turn on the following layers to help you in your hiking:
Roads – This will have GE display the road names on the map
Under Photos:
-- Panoramio – This will allow you to see dots in areas that can be clicked on to see photos. Usually, as you zoom in, more photo dots will appear.
Under Gallery:
-- Everytrail – This will display a clickable icon on the map where there is a hike defined by the Everytrail.com website.
-- Wikiloc – This will display a clickable “hiking” icon on the map where there is a hike defined by the Wikiloc website.
You can experiment with other layers if you want, but for hiking I feel the above layers are the best to use.

Here is how I feel hikers can use Google Earth. Say you want to go on a hike in Tosohatchee Wildlife Management Area. You would pan over to that spot using the mouse wheel and the left mouse button. As you zoom in on the area you will see a number of dots, which are photo dots. You could click on the dots to see photos of the different areas. You would also see hiking icons. You could click on these to see what hikes have been done by other people and uploaded to the Wikiloc or Everytrail website. If you like a hike, you could print it out (see the websites for help) or download it to your GPS. Once in your GPS (all units load tracks a different way, check your unit’s instructions for help), you could use the data as a reference when you do the hike. You also could zoom into an area that has no photos or hiking data to see what it looks like and maybe find a way to get to it. That is what I did for many of the hikes I have uploaded. I found what looked like an interesting hiking destination on Google Earth and then tried to figure a way to hike it. I find Google Earth to be a valuable tool in my hiking arsenal. I hope this article helps you, too, realize its value. If you have questions, use the help function in Google Earth or use Google searches to look up things.

How-To: Using Computer Program to "Split" a Large Track File

As I've mentioned in other blog entries about how some GPS Units don't allow you to load uploaded tracks with more than 500 track "points". As with everything there are many ways to fix a problem, this is just one of them. When done with this program you will have a new GPX File which can be used by any GPS handheld unit

Process Overview

  • Create a GPX file from your tracks - Garmin's Mapsource program allows you to save it's files in GPX format
  • Run program GPX Track Splitter
  • Load created GPX file back into your software - Garmin's Mapsource program reads GPX files
  • You will now have multiple track segments - each 500 track points or less

You will have to download and install on your computer the program "GPX Track Splitter" from this website http://sites.google.com/site/gpxtracksplitter/ (go to attachment section at the bottom of page). After doing the download, you will have to place it in a folder to be used - there is no "install" function.

Split the track points into blocks of 500

  • Start program "GPX Track Splitter"
  • Make sure "Delete Source Tracks" is checked
  • Make sure "Ask for Name of Tracks" is the selected option
  • Select "Open" and select the GPX file you downloaded
  • Use cursor to put checkmark next to the GPX file listed in the box on the left (word "Split" should now be bold)
  • Click on word "Split" in the lower right
  • A name box should now open up - enter a short name for the split track files (Example: HalScott)
  • Click "Save" in lower right corner - when file window opens up, select the folder you want to put it in and give it a logical name (Example: Hal Scott Track Split File.GPX)
  • You are now done with this program, close it
  • You will now have a GPX file which you can be used by many programs to load the tracks to your GPS. You can see my blog entry about using downloaded tracks from WIKILOC (http://tomchoma.blogspot.com/2009/04/this-entry-will-hopefully-help-you-to.html)

    How-To: Using GPS Coords in Google Earth

    In many of my entries I refer to "GPS Coords" - this is actually the latitude/longitude of the location I want you to look at. Your GPS unit's main function is to use satellites to determine where you are - recording the lat/long of the position. In order to see the place in Google Earth, you must have Google Earth desktop application available on your computer. If you do not have it or want to know more about it, see my writeup "How-To: Using Google Earth for Hiking" for more information. You can actually use the referenced lat/long in many applications, I'm just talking about Google Earth in this writeup.

    Here is what you do -
    • Start Google Earth if not already started
    • Check to insure the "Fly to" box is available on the left side of the screen - if not, hit "Ctrl-Alt-B" to show the sidebar
    • Enter the Lat/Long you want to lookup in the "Fly to" box (can use Copy & Paste)
    • Click on the magnifying glass icon to right of the "Fly to" box
    You should now "fly to" the location on the map. You now can zoom in and/or out to get a look at the location from the sky. The area picture might be a few years old, but it will give you an idea of the area. You can enter more if you want. By removing the checkmark next to any of the listed coords below the "Fly to" box they will not be shown on the map. You can "right-click" on an entry below the "Fly to" box and by selecting "properties" you can make the spot more descriptive.